Indeed, circular saws are the most common home power tool after drills. Battery-powered saws offer go-anywhere convenience, but plug-ins are far more capable.
WHAT'S AVAILABLE
Black & Decker, Bosch, Craftsman (Sears), DeWalt, Hitachi, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Skil brands account for most of the circular saws sold.
Corded models. These offer up to seven times the speed and power of cordless saws and run on an electric motor that can range from 10 to 15 amps. The higher the amps, the more power you can expect. Most models have the motor perpendicular to the blade. Price range: $30 to $175.
High-torque worm/hypoid-geared models have the motor parallel to the blade. That provides more twisting power, or torque, making the blade less likely to bind in dense or thick wood. But sawing tends to be slower, since blade speed is reduced. They're also relatively heavy. Price: $150 to $175.
Cordless models. These range from 18 to 28 volts. The blade is usually smaller than corded models' and run time is limited by the battery. Price: $60 to $300.
FEATURES THAT COUNT
Every saw has a large main handle and a stubby auxiliary handle; the main handle incorporates the saw's on/off switch. Some saws include a safety interlock, a second switch you must press to turn on the motor. While it helps prevent accidental startups, it can make the saw awkward to use.
Inexpensive saws have a stamped-steel base and thin housing; pricier models use thicker, more rugged material such as reinforced steel for harder use. A blade with two dozen large teeth cuts quickly but can splinter the wood; a blade with 40 or more smaller teeth gives a cleaner cut.
Bevel adjustment is used to change the angle of the cut from 0 to 45 degrees or more for some saws. Depth adjustment changes the blade's cutting depth. A circular saw works best when the teeth just clear the bottom of the wood.
A visible blade located to the left of the motor or a notch in the upper blade guard helps you see the blade and your cutting mark without leaning over the saw. Because the motor on worm-drive saws is parallel to the blade, it's easier to see your cutting mark--a reason pros like them. Many models include a laser guide but you must still draw a line and use a steady hand. It's also useless outdoors in bright sunlight.
A spindle lock keeps the blade from spinning while you change blades. A blade brake stops the blade quickly when you release the trigger. The dust chute directs sawdust away so you can see what you're doing. A long power cord (9 or 10 feet) often makes an extension cord unnecessary or helps keep the extension-cord connection away from your work.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Decide the kind of work you'll do. For occasional light cutting, most any saw is fine. For heavy use or for cutting hard or thick wood, choose a saw with speed and power, such as the top-rated models. Speed also affects safety; you're more likely to push a slow saw, dulling the blade quickly and overheating the motor as well as raising the risk of jamming and kickback.
Try it out. Look for easy blade changes and adjustments for depth and angle, good balance, a comfortable handle, and a handy on/off switch. Also look for easily accessible motor brushes, a heavy-duty base, and rugged hardware for blade-depth and cutting-angle-adjustments.
Check the blade. Most saws now have carbide-tipped blades, which cut quicker and last longer than steel blades. (You can retrofit them to older saws.) Match the number of teeth with the material you want to cut; blades for plywood, say, have more teeth than those for rough cutting.
Safety counts. All saws are loud enough to warrant hearing protection. They also kick up lots of chips and dust, so wear a mask and safety glasses or goggles.
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